Villa Zeezicht
Although you could try sandwiches and pastas here, half the patrons seem to be eating the famous apple pie. For around you get a mountain of apples dusted in cinnamon, surrounded by warm pastry and fresh cream. In warm weather tables are set up on the bridge over the Singel.
Claire V
The silk handbags, wraps and accessories embroidered with patterns and floral designs are gorgeous, but that's not the only reason they're worthy. Claire's wares are made at a training centre for Cambodian landmine victims, so by shopping here you'll look good and do good.
Centraal Station
Built on an artificial island in 1889, the Centraal Station (Amsterdam CS, to train travellers) was designed as a neo-Renaissance 'curtain', a controversial plan that effectively cut off Amsterdam from the IJ river. One of the architects, PJ Cuypers, also designed the Rijksmuseum, and you can see the similarities - in the square faux-Gothic towers, the fine red brick and the abundant reliefs, for sailing, trade and industry.
Sugar Factory
Cool spot, excellent location and a varied line-up are the hallmarks here. Most nights have both early programs (live music, cinema or spoken word) and late-night fun including DJs and dancing. So pop in and check it out, there's something guaranteed to tickle every one of your fancies.
Hemp Hotel
Proof positive that Amsterdam is the capital of the northern 'hempisphere', this intimate, chilled-out hotel features colourful and individually decorated rooms with a 'just-back-from-Goa' vibe. In the cafe you can try hemp beverages and you may find hemp-flour rolls with your breakfast.
Santa Jet
Relationship a bit rocky? Career in the doldrums? Hotfoot it to Santa Jet and buy up big. You'll need their love potions, a few Mexican shrines and religious icons, some Day of the Dead paraphernalia and an assortment of good-luck charms. Even if your life is perfect, who knows when it could all go wrong?
Le Petit Latin
Easy to overlook, with its step-down entrance, the 'Little Latin' drips with culinary authority, and it's not just the curled travel posters from the Côte d'Azur. If you can't read the blackboard scrawl, chef Jacques from Marseille will crouch to give you the day's specials - Aquitaine lamb? Fresh mullet flown in from the Riviera? Who can say non. The wine list is brief but formidable. Reserve or weep.
Saarein
During the late-1970s Saarein was the focal point of the feminist movement, and it's now a premier meeting place for lesbians. The cafe itself dates from the early 1600s. It offers a small menu with tapas, great soups and daily specials. Bar staff can give you tips on lesbian nightlife. Typical of this friendly place, gay men are welcome too.
Canal House Hotel
Where to spend your time in this splendid, historic, 17th-century hotel? In the ornately furnished, high-ceilinged, 17th-century dining room resplendent with chandeliers, grand piano and garden views? The plush, burgundy-hued bar? Or the small but inviting antique-filled guest rooms?
De Pieper
Considered by some customers to be the king of the brown cafés, De Pieper is small, unassuming and unmistakably old (1665). The interior features stained-glass windows, fresh sand on the floors, antique Delft beer mugs hanging from the bar and a working Belgian beer pump (1875). It's a friendly, sweet place for a late-night Wieckse Witte.
Christophe
Lobster dishes, duck-liver terrine and unusual elegance keep Jean-Christophe Royer's Michelin-starred restaurant busy every night. However, the excellent, caring service puts it over the top in our book, making this an extraordinary restaurant by world, and not just Amsterdam, standards.
Erotic Museum
Ho hum. Your usual assortment of bondage exhibits, erotic photos and cartoons. Although this museum has the advantage of location, it's less entertaining, not as well laid out, more expensive and a little seedy when compared with the Sexmuseum Amsterdam on the Damrak.
Hotel Résidence le Coin
This shiny new hotel owned by the University of Amsterdam offers understated yet well-equipped apartments spread over seven historical buildings, all with designer furniture and kitchenettes, and all reachable by lift. Contemporary decor is unobtrusive, comfy and sane, with wooden floors, comfortable bedspreads, and tables topped with simple frosted glass.
VVV Holland Tourist Promotions
Dutch Automobile Association (ANWB)
Has free and heavily discounted maps.
Nou Moe
This tiny corner shop features Asterix, Garfield, Tintin and 24 (yes, that 24 - don't ask us how you base a comic on a television show that unfolds in real time!). More importantly, it sells various merchandise: soft toys, notebooks, stickers, games, coffee mugs and bedroom slippers.
Flying Pig Downtown Hostel
Hang out with hundreds of dope-smoking, young backpackers at this very relaxed, very central, 30-room hostel. It's pretty grungy, but no one seems to mind, especially when there's so much fun to be had. A basic breakfast is included, and you can save money by requesting a queen-size bed for two people.
Eduard Kramer
Kramer is way too cute and kooky to consider itself a serious antiques store - they leave that to the street's more sober dealers. Crammed to bursting, with enough nooks and crannies to keep you browsing for hours, this family-run business specialises in antique Dutch wall and floor tiles and wonderful Dutch vintage homewares.
Pancake Bakery
This basement restaurant in a restored warehouse features a dizzying 79 varieties of this Dutch speciality from sweet (chocolate) to savoury (the 'Egyptian', topped with lamb, sweet peppers, garlic sauce). There are also omelettes, soups, desserts and lots of tourists given its proximity to the Anne Frank Huis.
Hoppe
The constantly-packed brown cafe known only as Hoppe has been serving its patrons for more than 300 years and is a place where some serious drinking gets done: Hoppe has the city's highest beer turnover (250,000 litres a year). With its beer barrels and recycled church pews for seats, this dark bar has a cosy ambience.
VVV Van Tuyll Serooskerkenweg Tourist Office
Blauw Aan De Wal
Originally a 17th-century herb warehouse, this white-washed, exposed brick multilevel space still features old steel weights and measures, plus friendly, knowledgeable service and contemporary French- and Italian-inspired cooking. Order the chocolate brownie for its molten centre. In summer, grab a table in the romantic garden.
Argos
Amsterdam's oldest leather bar still hosts leather boys of all ages in its famous darkrooms and cabins, fully equipped with the requisite kinky toys. The regular 'SOS' (Sex On Sunday) party is always guaranteed to be something wild (though safe) - the dress code is (not surprisingly) nude or semi-nude.
Tara
This expat meeting place combines Irish folksiness with Amsterdam chic. In its maze of rooms (the one-time home of German expressionist Max Beckmann) you'll find warm fireplaces, a cool bar, gorgeous wall carvings and seats salvaged from an old Irish church. Catch frequent musical happenings and sports on the telly. Meals include Irish stew, and beef and Guinness pie (mains around .50 to &uro;13.50).
Thai Corner
Don't dismiss this cute little place: it does seriously authentic Thai. Locals and restaurant critics swoon over squid with garlic pepper and tofu with Thai basil, and stare agog at the over-the-top, carved wooden bar at the back of the room. Other restaurants could afford to take lessons from the self-effacing service.
VVV Leidseplein
Chills & Thrills
Always packed with tourists straining to hear each other over thumping techno music, this busy shop sells herbal trips, mushrooms, psychoactive cacti, amino-acid and vitamin drinks, novelty bongs and life-size alien sculptures. Check out the minivaporiser, a smoke-free way to consume grass.
Cosmic Theatre
This theatre originated in Curaçao and has made it all the way to the big city, staging plays representing a variety of cultures. Emphasis is on Surinamese, African, Turkish and Moroccan. There's also a competition for young writers.
Bloemenmarkt
It's hard to resist the quivering tulips at Amsterdam's signature flower market, near Muntplein. Once you've chosen your 10lb bag of Burning Heart or Queen of Night bulbs, ask the traders if you can take it back home. Ireland and the UK allow an unlimited number of bulbs to be brought back in, as do Canada and the USA (accompanied by a certificate, which will be provided).
Amsterdam Wiechmann Hotel
This family-run hotel has a marvellous canalside location, with cosy rooms furnished like antique shops and a lobby loaded with tchotchkes (knick-knacks) including a suit of armour and a potbelly stove. There may be grander lodgings in town, but few with a bigger heart; no surprise since this hotel has been in the same family for half a century.
Maes B&B
If you were designing your own home in the western canals and wanted it to have lots of traditional character, it would probably turn out a lot like this four-bedroom property: oriental carpets, wood floors, exposed brick. Rooms are quite large for such an old building, even the single room. Internet access is available, and there's no smoking on the premises.
Café Nol
Hipsters may cringe, but Café Nol epitomises the old-style Jordaan cafe with a must-see kitsch interior. It's the sort of place where the original Jordanese (before students, artists and professionals moved in) still sing oompah ballads with drunken abandon; nowadays, everyone from athletic types to drag queens might join in. Here comes the neighbourhood.
Black Tulip Hotel
Rooms at this (exclusively gay male) hotel are fitted out with a mind-boggling array of bondage equipment: cages, slings, hooks, chairs, masses of black leather and latex. Lest you think that's somehow sleazy, rest assured that the Tulip is well tended, bright, fashionable and (pardon the expression) spanking clean.
Waterlooplein Flea Market
You need a 70s-style burgundy leather jacket, a Beastie Boys record and an Indian hash pipe, and you need 'em now! You'll find all this and more at Amsterdam's most famous flea market. Sure, there's junk galore, but sift through it to find that perfect vintage negligee or darling handbag. Haggling is encouraged.
The Amsterdam Uitburo