Amsterdam Hotels

History, art, a head of beer and a roll-your-own.

The city seems to thrive on its mix and, despite hordes of tourists, still manages to feel quintessentially Dutch. The old crooked houses, the cobbled streets, the tree-lined canals and the generous parks all contribute to the atmosphere.

Amsterdam's centre is enjoyably small-scale, though finding your way around the canal belt can be confusing. The old city is contained within the ring of concentric canals dating from the 17th century that form the crescent-shaped canal belt bordered by the Singelgracht. Think of it as half a bicycle wheel: the medieval city around Centraal Station is the hub, and several main roads, minor canals and the Amstel River function as spokes. Dam Square, five minutes' walk south of the station, is the centre of town, but there are several other happening 'centres', all within walking distance: Leidseplein, with much of the city's cultural life and nightlife, Rembrandtplein (nightlife), Spui ('intellectual' life) and Museumplein (culture) are just some of the focal points that make the city a joy to explore on foot or by bicycle. Centraal Station, the central train and bus station, lies on the south bank of the IJ. The airport at Schiphol is 18km (11mi) southwest of the city centre.

Amsterdam peaks with people around Easter and July-August but both of these times have their pros. April to May sees daffodils and tulips come to life through the cracks in the crowds. The beautiful summers are a great time to grab a bite and a drink alongside a canal. While winter can be a bit bleak it's rarely extremely cold, and sheltering in the cosy-hearthed pubs will give you a chance to meet 'real' Dutch. Also around this time accommodation is cheaper (except around New Year) and the best sights are all but deserted.